Savoie is famous for winter sports, but its wines scores too

So says Fiona Sims of the Sunday Times, and I must admit I have to agree with her.

Although this region of France has some of the smallest vineyards in France, they are of course proud of them and are synonymous with the French scenery.

The Wine Route of Savoie comprises 3 marked circuits:
- Combe de Savoie close to Chambéry.

- Chautagne and Jongieux, near the Lake Bourget

- Léman and Arve in the northern part near Lake Geneva.

Montmélian (73800) seems to be the centre of the Combe de Savoie wine tour region.  This is 105km (about 1 and a half hour) from Chamonix by the D1212 or 161km by the more major A40 and A41 route.  The drive itself to get there is rather scenic, with Montmélian being on the edge of the Massif des Bauges national park. Check out the route to get there.

The route around the Montmélian area takes in the elegant white wine area Apremont and Abymes and the red wine Chignin, a map of which is here. This particular route covers 16 villages and is probably the shortest in distance, overlooked by the Chartreuse mountain range. Addresses of the individual vineyards are found here.

Chautagne and Jongieux route can be found in a similar direction, towards Aix Les Bains.

Alternatively take the drive in the opposite direction over the Forclaz pass towards Martigny, Switzerland. Driving along the Rhone river valley, past the wine vineyards of the Swiss canton of Valais. This is probably the Léman and Arve tour.  I say probably as we’ve not done it ourselves, so if you do it, please let me know how you get on. We’re told that Sion is a medieval city with the Chateau de Valére perched above the city within the Valais and is worth a visit apparently.

If you are interested in learning about the grape varieties themselves, this is a useful site by Vin de Savoie.  The principle white grape variety being jacquere, almost exclusively found in the Savoie, being zippy grapefruit and lemon zest in flavour.  The site also has facilities for selecting vineyards or grape for example.

And to start the spring off nicely the wine producers open up their tasting rooms and cellars to all, on the closest weekend to 1st May.

There is also a family walk through the vineyards with a tasting of wine and local food, held in a different cru each year on Sunday at the end of July.

Indoor entertainment at the Vox Cinema

Last year was quite fraught for Chamonix’s Vox cinema.  At the end of 2010 there was a threat of closure, and petitions were generated.  Thankfully the “Community of the Chamonix Valley Communes” agreed to pay a grant of 70,000 euros per year for 3 years, ending 2013. This was with the proviso that the management will invest in digital and 3D projectors soon after this period.

Due to the generous donations it means that English and French speaking people alike have the opportunity to watch current and classic films from around the world each day from around 4pm.  Fitting for a cinema located in the Alps it also runs a programme of mountain related films mid evening a few times a week in July and August.  The programme is varied, catering for adults and children alike on its 3 screens.  So even if the summer weather is a little inclement you can retreat into the cosy old cinema, ditto the winter.

The cinema is easy to find, opposite the Tourist Office, near the main square, 22 Cour Bartavel  +33 (0)4 50 53 03 39.  You can’t miss its great mural full of actors and film sets.  Ticket are 8 Euros for adults 6 Euros for children.

For other ideas during inclement weather try this or this.

What to do if the snow isn’t great….

We’re very much looking forward to our last trip to Chamonix for ski season 10/11.  However, given how late Easter falls this year, and the fact that the weather is so mild, the snow ain’t great.  According to the Chamonix Daily Dump Snow Report 31st March, there is no snow base below 2,000m and it was raining at Montenvers.

fortunately for us, we’re happy to take it easy on the skiing front, because we know we’ll be going back again.  However we still want to make the most of our holiday and keep the kids amused.  The hunch is it’ll be lessons in the morning then other things in the afternoon.

So here are a couple of things we might be doing again:

• The ice grotto at the top of the Montenvers Railway.  The kids had great fun last year, and I understand there is even a geocache up there   La Grotte de Glace, so that would be a nice bonus find while we’re up there, particularly given how few finds its had.
• Swimming at the indoor pool of the Richard Bozon Sports Centre.

And here are somethings we haven’t tried yet that sound a good idea

• A drawing and painting lessons for beginners and improvers.  A local artist Catherine Kartal, a renowned painter and art teacher who will bring out your hidden talents I gather. Apparently the lessons are either in the open air or in her studio, both of which seem to be in the centre of Chamonix.
• Photographic exhibition in the central library.  Photos are from the South of India and may well make you think of warmer climbs. Entrance is free.
• And I’m also wondering if we might improve our French by listening to the story telling sessions in the libraries dotted around the valley.  Some how the kids don’t seem to keen ……

And I suppose there are always some of the summer activities we found to do in the area when it was raining in the summer, such as the museum, mini golf or bowling.

The Compagnie du Mont Blanc have also been thinking about what else we might want to do is mud stops play. For every on-line purchase of a MONT BLANC Unlimited lift-pass from 3 days or more at the promotional price from 4th to 15th April 2011, ladies you can exclusively enjoy activities that have been specially selected for them at a highly preferential price. …. Link to their ladies week suggesting spas, culture, nature etc.

Things to do in Chamonix when its raining

Well let’s face it, this summer wasn’t the sunniest in much of Western Europe.  And if there wasn’t rain the scenery wouldn’t be a lovely lush green would it?

Having become comfortably used to temperatures regularly hitting the 30s in previous summers, I must admit I’d become a bit complacent in my packing and not paid too much attention to filling cases with jumpers and trousers.  A bit daft really when one of the highlights of going to the Alps is to see snow-capped mountains. Nevermind, a good excuse to go shopping

So with Chamonix being principally an outdoor holiday, we had to discover some alternative activities if we were to stay dry.   So, here are some of the things we found to do to keep the kids entertained and damp free.

• Bowling. A place we have walked past so many times in Cham Sud, but never visited.  The kids were delighted. During wet weather it opens at 2pm, (as opposed to 5pm on dry days) and stays open until 10pm.  Although each game isn’t cheap (9 Euros per adult, 7 Euros per child I think), they offer a bowl and drink package where for an extra euro you can get a drink (soft or alcoholic).  A drink, bowl and pizza package is also available for 14euros.

• Indoor mini golf. Located above the bowling alley, it’s nice and dry, if not a little quick 9 holes. 5 Euros per person, a round which you can string out at quiet times.

• The Crystal Musem at the Espace Tairraz. Although Daddy is almost allergic to museums we managed to pass an hour and half without too much stress. It comprises two exhibitions:  “Les Hommes and Les Glaciers” and a crystal display.  The main exhibitions was of course very appropriate to the location with many pictures, exhibits and films relating to the geology of key glaciers around the world, the history of Mont Blanc’s conquering, environmental aspects etc.  It also had a rather interesting chunk of the Indian airplane that crashed into the mountain during the 60′s. The crystal exhibition had a little history on the crystal hunters, but most importantly lots of lovely sparkly stones of various hues. Bling with labels, the kids loved it!

• Alpine museum. You get entry to both museums for the price of one.  We didn’t actually get to visit this museum as it was felt by the male member of the family that one museum a holiday was enough.  But we had tickets for it, so I thought I’d include it in my list

• Geocaching.  Not as daft as it might first appear as there are many just on the edge of car parks that only take a few minutes to get to.  For example Montee Divine opposite Les Houches at the foot of the Jesus statue, Vue sur les Grandes on a river bank near at Les Tignes and Toute vapeur near Montenvers station in the middle of town.  Well if you are going to go for a drive you need a reason to stretch you legs don’t you.

Although we had a good few days in the wet we didn’t get a chance to try some of the other things like the indoor climbing wall in Les Houches, the cinema or ice skating.  So every cloud has a silver lining I suppose, leaving us something to look forward to the next time it rains.