Other travel related bits
I think The Times might quite fancy Chamonix….
Yes I know I said there was a part two to our recent trip, but before we get to that I thought I’d share with you the things that have recently distracted in the Sunday Times.
We’re subscribers so the papers always seem to litter our living room at the weekend, sometimes the articles even get read out aloud, not as a performance piece of course, but as an item of shared interest. Well, it seems that we’ve had a lot of those kind of conversations recently; the Sunday Times just seems to love Chamonix.
- Last Sunday there was a nice piece about back country touring on snowboards, using a split board. It seems there is a new phase ‘splitties’, and its starting to appeal to the intermediate snowboarder too. Splitboarding in the Alps _ The Sunday Times.
- The week before we spotted an article mentioning the last minute half term ski bargains. Late travel deals for January 31, 2015 _ The Times We’re booked for that week, but the town’s mention in association with family friendly skiing tends to be seldom compared to the more hair raising stuff.
- This was preceded by a piece installing the virtues of purchasing in the valley. Love the Alps_ Chamonix _ The Sunday Times Ours may not be for sale, but we think Sean Newsom go it spot on when he said:
“If anything, the sense that not everyone will like it (because its a scattered resort within a steep valley) seems to deepen the appeal for those already settled here. It’s almost as if, by buying into Chamonix, they’ve joined a club for people who really understand the mountains and know how to use them, rather than the lightweights who flirt with them once or twice a winter. This creates a powerful bond.”
And we were intrigued, and probably agree upon reflection, when it was described as having “slightly grungy, granola feel.” 🙂
- So that took us to the 25th January, but you only needed to go back a few days to see it featuring in recommended short break destinations Ten great mini-ski breaks _ The Times. Given the amount of snow that has dumped over the last few weeks it looks as though the end of season will be fantastic, 65 of the 68 ski lifts currently open.
- A week or two further back we find an angle on the summer season. It came in at number 28 for its summer walking holiday using the Grand Balcon Nord path and number 31 for its exhibition celebrating 150 years of mountaineering history. Not bad getting 2 mentions in France’s top 50 destinations. The 50 best holidays in France _ The Times
So not bad, 5 mentions in around 5 weeks. I look forward to reading the other articles that will no doubt be written over the coming months.
Ski Club Ambassadors could offer a way around the French ski hosting ban
You may have heard the for-oar last year about the French banning the likes of helpful chalet guides offering assistance to competence skiers regarding routes. Well I’m sad to report that the appeal heard at a 2 hour hearing today in front of a panel of 3 appeal court judges in Chambery on 2nd July was unsuccessful. The court did uphold part of the appeal referring to Le Ski’s insurance policy which it confirmed did cover the company for ski hosting. The court also substantially reduced the amount of damages which had been awarded to the Ecole du Ski Français (ESF).
On 5th Sept 2014 Le Ski has today instructed their lawyer to submit an appeal to the supreme court in Paris regarding the ski hosting case.The argument continues…
What is the argument?
- Ski hosting, ski escorting, or social skiing is when guests are shown around the resort, usually by an employee of their chalet, hotel or tour operator. The guest doesn’t need to look at the map every few minutes, can be taken to the best pistes for the time of day and conditions, and gets the chance to ski with a small group – particularly valuable for people on holiday alone, or couples or groups of mixed ability. There is no instruction given.
- Some French civil servants and teachers are exempt from holding a qualification, so Le Ski claim that the ruling is discriminatory, and therefore unjustifiable under EU law.
- ESF’s argument is about safety. Although hosts don’t give any ski instruction, the guest may still consider them to be responsible for the safety of the group. ESF argue that therefore the host should be qualified.
How do I legally use British skiing advice?
Ok, so you might think that turning to clubs, such as the British Ski Club maybe still good to do as they are a group of individuals with a shared passion who are prepared to share their experience, joined in membership of a club. But no, you’d be wrong there too, well at least to an extent.
Well, a Ski Club Leader was stopped on the piste in Val d’Isere in April this year and will be required to attend a preliminary investigative hearing. The Ski Club are providing legal representation and complying fully with the authorities, but unfortunately under French law it is the individual in the dock, and not the Ski Club
But Ski Club Leaders offer a hosting service, but the Leaders are not paid – they are volunteers; this makes the situation different from the Le Ski case. Leaders undertake a two-week training course, and receive expenses during their on-snow leading slots. French law does allow for legitimate expenses, and so this is the case that will be argued. The initial hearing was due to take place in Albertville on Monday 1st September has been deferred until Monday 8th December 2014. So again we wait to hear the outcome.
Therefore, in France the Ski Club will have Ambassadors (not Leaders) for this season. They can advise on itineraries and book guides, introduce members to each other, and meet up with members for lunch and after skiing. There will be Ambassadors in all of the 11 French resorts where there were previously leaders: Alpe d’Huez, Avoriaz, Courchevel, Flaine, La Plagne, Les Arcs, Meribel, Tignes, Val d’Isere, Val Thorens and here in Argentiere,
Where next?
Well of course we waitng to hear the results of the cases and appeals mentioned above, but t’s not only snowsports instructors who are affected. In early August 2014 a mountain biking instructor who teaches in the Alps was issued with a letter that formally forbids him to instruct. He has the highest level British qualification but it is considered inadmissible by the local prosecutor because his examination did not take place in France. He risks one year imprisonment and€15,000 fine if he carries on teaching.
Although no statement about the mountain bike instructor, according to the statement of the French Embassy, a new system will be introduced shortly: “The UK, France and nine other member states have signed a Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) to create a professional card for European ski instructors. The first professional cards are expected to be issued in 2014/2015. This will go a long way to helping standardise practice for ski instructors while also helping to guarantee the sort of professional teaching everyone should be free to enjoy”. The MoU stipulates that the instructor would be exempt from the Eurotest if they held 100 FIS points in alpine skiing for men, or 85 FIS points for women.
So ski hosting in its current form will need to change if all hosts were required to have the high-level qualifications that allow them to instruct in France.
The Tsar of Chamonix
This may be a familiar sight if you are a regular visitor to Chamonix. A Dr Zhivago look alike that enjoys riding through town in a full green coachman outfit, complete with white plumb and belt. He can often be found in the main market square, and trotting up and down the Rue de Docteur Piccarde.
He is a quiet man, happy to stand silently and proudly along side one of the carriages that he maintains meticulously. He has quiet a collection apparently, a few of them rare.
The gentleman in question is Paul Evin, who originates from Brittany, has travelled extensively and married a Chamonaird lady. A blacksmith by training, currently doing farriering too he has a passion for all things Russian and has spent uncountable hours restoring the body and paint work of his beloved carriages. – Sledge carriages were used in Chamonix up to the 1950s when the council started sanding and salting the roads, so this man has single handedly saved a pice of Chamonix’s history and kept it alive for us to see in action today.
He has quietly wandered the town for nearly 40 years, so is almost as established part of the tourist experience as Aiguille du Midi or the Balmat and Saussure statue. So if you see him, be sure to take a photo to add to your collection. He is a great sight to see and nothing to do with any official tourist organisation either.
Hang gliding and Paragliding in the Alps
You often see para or hang gliders circling overhead while wandering around the town or the slopes. I’m never quite sure whether they are the result of tourist provision or serious sports people. Having done a bit of digging around it seems to be a bit of both.
My brother in-law used our place last year during the spring to do some hang gliding the local area friends from his UK club in and seemed impressed, which is one perspective. Last year also saw friends of ours with a 7 year old son treat him to a parapente experience, i.e. a tandem paraglide for his birthday, so I suppose that’s a personal example of both.
It’s the more serious stuff I’m intrigued in though, as during the lift opening seasons it seems pretty obvious where you can launch from and fly. So where can you launch and land when the lifts are closed?
Firstly I discovered this map by Oliver Guenay which at least confirmed that Chamonix was a serious location in terms of flying. Given that the mountains perhaps provide the best thermalling and cross country scenery it might not be a surprise.
Then I found this great appraisal of the area from The Alpine Flying Centre. (They are a British BHPA school and offer BHPA – EPC and CPC paragliding beginner courses from April to November). Their review gives a great feeling for the types of flying during different times of the year. Extracts below:
- During mid-winter months Chamonix has excellent and gentle flying, ideal for the new alpine pilot wanting to experience massive top to bottoms, gaining air experience and learning more about alpine launching and landing approach techniques in high altitudes conditions.
- From early February onwards the sun reaches the valley and good thermals rise giving excellent conditions. The potential cross country flying is then very good: ‘cats-cradles’, triangles, out and returns or straight distance flights are possible.
- To leave the valley in the Passy/Varan direction to the west you will need to be at least 2700 metres asl. and have very light winds. Any significant wind from the west will slow your progress. The ground speed reading from a GPS will assist.
- To venture off in the direction of Verbier to the east you will need a day with very little or a very light westerly wind, and easy height gains to 3000 metres or more. There are often very strong valley breezes down low in the Martigny Valley in Switzerland so care is needed!
Spring & Summer
- Spring and summer offer a variation of conditions that can become quite strong by early to mid- afternoon. Excellent flying can be found during the early part of the day and late in the afternoon and evening but then from Plan l Aiguille on the other side of the valley.
- In spring and summer and when the conditions become too strong in Chamonix Valley, it is worth driving down to Plaine Joux, opposite the viaduct, just outside the valley to the south west.
Autumn
- The autumn weather in Chamonix provides much smoother flying conditions, however, many of the cable cars may be closed for maintenance, making access to some sites impossible. So check for opening/closure times.
They have even helpfully put together a site guide, which details etiquette, launch and landing sites with co-ordinates, along with access and hazards to be aware. A very thorough document that can be checked out here.
So, yes, there does seem to be plenty of sites still available when the lifts are closed.
So now to track down these people who have flown to tell their tales and see if I can borrow some photos…
Hate heights, but love a rare view?
So how good are you with heights? What about suspense films? Ok, yes all very confusing the film ‘Touching the Void’ was about scary falling climbers and it turns out that ‘Step into the Void’ is a drug inspired video. However, which ever way you look at it the Aiguille du Midi’s new viewing platform will probably prompt your pulse to race.
The “Step into the Void” is a glass room built around a metal frame. Three glass walls, floor and ceiling panels, allow visitors to control their vertigo and experience 1035 meters of space under their feet in total safety! Admire the views from a dramatic perspective! Anyone with vertigo can step in, assured. It’s installed on the uppermost terrace of the Aiguille du Midi (3842m).
- Walk into the void
Chamonix.net reliably tells us that each of these glass panels is custom built to the highest standards for safety and clarity. The five glass panels (12mm thick) consist of three layers of glass binded together. The structure can withstand winds of more than 220km/ h and a maximum temperature of 60°.
The construction has been designed by Pierre-Yves Chays and the work began on 19 September 2013. The “Step into the Void” was inspired by the “Skywalk”, the huge glass walkway overlooking the Grand Canyon in the US state of Arizona.
Although operated by CMB, there isn’t much on their website about it yet, but I’ve seen that you need to wear slippers while inside it. I’m intrigued to know if its an extra fee as I would imagine the queues will be rather longer to try it out.
It’s a dogs life – vets and cani cross
The great mountains called her and off she trotted, very gamefully up 50 degree or so slopes, full of snow. The walk to the Cascade du Dard from the back of our flat suited her nicely and quickly helped to expend her of some energy. (By the way you don’t have to take such a steep path to the gorge, she just loved running up the slopes.). She had great fun in the snowy banks.
With her pulling prowess it gave us a neat business idea: cani rando (doggy hiking). As of yet we’ve not seen it in Chamonix yet, but it seems to be all the rage in Megeve. Basically it seems to be 15euros a half day for other people to take your dog for a walk. Well we have the waist belt for running with her, plus the dog harness, so we’re all set to go 🙂 Might be a bit cheeky to charge the extra 7 euros for a kneel visit though, unless of course we offered them a cup of coffee when they got to the flat.
Anyway, time came so as we had to get her back into England. She needed to be wormed between 5 days and 24hours before returning home, and as Chamonix is less that a days drive away we could sort the vaccinations in resort before leaving. We found 2 vets on the internet: one who was sure of her prices, the other less so. so we went for the fixed price vet Valerie Heirman, located on the main road between Les Tines & Les Praz, easily spotted by her big blue cross.
Everything was then straightforward and she wolfed her tablet down within the food it was hidden. Job done in a visit that lasted only a few minutes.
Valerie Heirman, 1041 Route Des Tines. 04 50 53 98 08 was the vet we used.
Our travel on the Channel Tunnel was straightforward both ways too. Another fee we wondered how hard someone had to work to earn it, we even scanned our own microchip for them.
Anyway, all good, and she thoroughly enjoyed her trip and will be looking forward to her visit in the summer.
A quick shot above of her recovering form her cani cross activities on a rare occasion when she suck on the sofa!!. We thoroughly hoovered and cleaned afterwards I hasten to add.
Exploring Chamonix Mont-Blanc 